People here wash their cars in the rain.

Someone from Los Angeles might think that’s insane, but if you’re from Seattle you think nothing of seeing someone at the car wash during a winter drizzle. If it’s rained for two solid weeks and is going to rain for two more, sometimes you just have to wash off the gunk and start over.
A clean car not only makes you feel better, it protects your car’s resale value — something that might be of particular interest right now, as people might be holding onto cars a little longer. Particularly with older cars, clean vs. dirty can make a huge difference in sale price.

One local used car dealer estimated you can get up to 25 percent more for a car that looks and smells clean, and people can tell the difference between a car that was kept clean all along and one that got a hasty carpet shampoo before the “for sale” sign went up.
If you’re car shopping and you get into a car that smells like it’s been housing wet chinchillas, or notice a shady rectangle on the rear carpet from when a child left a Fudgesicle on it in 1996, does that attract you to the car? On the other hand, if a car feels like it’s been taken care of on the outside, you tend to assume the previous owner also took care of it mechanically.

The best choice for washing is generally a top-flight commercial car wash like Brown Bear. They take the extra step of recycling their water, which has a huge impact on the environment. Places like Brown Bear also have special brushes, wiping cloths, and cleansers. All are gentle products designed specifically for the exterior of most cars, because they have to be.

But it’s a financial commitment to have your car professionally cleaned often, so even though many major car manufacturers advise against hand washing, some people will choose the do-it-yourself option at least sometimes. Following a few guidelines can make the process more effective, easier and more environmentally friendly.
• Don’t wash your car in the driveway or on the street. Storm drains feed directly into rivers, lakes and the ocean — which means all the soapy byproducts of your washing end up there, too. Most people wouldn’t dream of dumping a bucket of soapy water into Puget Sound, but it’s literally the same thing to wash the car in the driveway. If you must wash at home, choose biodegradable car wash liquids or make your own using eco-friendly dish or laundry soaps. And it’s better to wash your car on your lawn than on the concrete — the waste water does less damage filtering down through your soil than flowing into the storm drain.

• Keep your wash mitts and rags clean. If grit and bits of debris build up on the implement you use to scrub the car, you may as well be polishing your car’s paint with sandpaper. It causes visible swirl marks and breaks down wax. Run those mitts and rags through the washing machine after every use.

• Wash early or wash late. Most people know not to apply wax in direct sunlight, but you shouldn’t wash under those conditions either, especially if the weather is warm. It causes spotting from the cleanser that can be damaging and permanent.

• Rinse, rinse, rinse. One of the cautions against home washing is that water pressure from your hose isn’t strong enough to adequately rinse off cleansers, which build up and hurt the finish. Put that sprayer on full blast and give it an extra once-over.

• Test your interior cleaners first. There are so many types of cleaners, and so many kinds of upholstery, leather and plastic, that you can’t assume a product won’t damage your surfaces. Test on an inconspicuous area first, and when using spray cleaners, spray on the rag to apply rather than spraying directly on the surface. Especially when it’s sunny, that can leave spots that are difficult or impossible to remove.

• Remove odors, don’t pile on more. We’ve all known the guy who has a dozen of those little air freshener trees hanging from the rear view mirror of a car that smells sickeningly of vanilla or pina colada. People often do this thinking (wrongly) that it will cover up that the occupants smoke in the car. Piling your car full of air fresheners, or spraying a blast of cherryscent in it at the self-serve car wash, doesn’t make it smell clean. Think of air fresheners like cologne — a little can be complimentary,but a lot just makes you stink.

In general, don’t add “good” scents, work on taking away bad ones.Have the upholstery steam cleaned. Use a small vacuum attachment to get debris, mold and grime out of the air vents. Regularly spray Febreze on cloth upholstery and headliners. If you can’t get floor mats sufficiently clean, consider replacing them. And each time you gas up the car, use the time while the pump is running to clean out any garbage that has accumulated. Moldering food wrappers and soda cans are a big source of bad car smells.

Also, don’t use your car to house wet chinchillas. That’s just common sense.

Dave Andriesen is a former Seattle P-I sports reporter. His stories can been seen on SeattleAuto.net as a contributing writer.

Step 6: How to Set a Price For Your Car

The trickiest part of the negotiating game is to set a price that is fair to both you and the dealership. As good or bad as a dealership might be, they still have to make a profit. In fact, you might be surprised to hear that dealerships average about a mere 1% profit per year on total sales.

Normally, I advise to set a general price point around 1% to 3% over dealer invoice on a new vehicle (that’s $200 to $600 for a $20,000 vehicle). In the current economic situation however, dealers are becoming very desperate, so it’s reasonable to aim for invoice pricing and even lower. Checking with sites like Edmunds.com is a good way to figure out what other people have been paying for similar vehicles.

Figuring out the price on a used car is a bit more tricky, but uses the same method. What you want to do is find the wholesale value on the car you’re looking at. This can be estimated by using the Kelly Blue Book and finding the trade-in value of the vehicle. After that, you should add about 10% on top of that value to get a pricing figure. Note that the auto industry and your dealership doesn’t use Blue Book pricing, but instead use what is called the Black Book. This is a wholesale pricing guide similar to Kelly’s Blue Book. While the the pricing is different, it’s similar enough for your needs.

In addition to standard profit percentages, there are many other things that can effect how much you should expect to pay:

• Base car price: The pricier the vehicle, the more you generally pay in mark-up.
• Vehicle lot age: The longer a vehicle sits, the less flexible the price due to reduction in holdback profit
• Demand and supply: Hot cars will simply demand more money
• Day of month: End of the month is better due to monthly sales quotas
• Month: End of the year (Nov, Dec) is also better due to yearly sales quotas
• Dealership: Each dealership has a different philosophy on price point
• Salesman: Each sales guy you meet will be different – some flexible, some not
• Manufacturer: Different auto makers have different holdback percentages, which affect how low a dealer is willing to go

Also, be sure to look up any current factory to dealer or customer incentives on new vehicles. Throughout the year, many manufacturers have a rebate or other incentive to help spur sales, which usually ranges from $1,000 to $5,000 in cash back, 0.00% APR or other goodies. These are the biggest savings you’ll receive on a car purchase and should not be overlooked.

Lastly, it’s a common myth that you can get a great deal by buying a car in cash. Unfortunately, that is not true – and in fact, probably the opposite of the truth. Dealerships can make thousands of dollars on the financing side of a sale, so it’s actually in their interest that you finance a vehicle through them. 

Step 7: The Actual Sales Negotiation

This is the part everybody hates. Your friendly salesman seats you across from him, offers you the coffee or a soda and then asks the magic question: “What would it take for you to drive home with this vehicle today?” Every salesman asks this question in the hope you might be that 1 in 100 sucker that actually replies by saying you’ll take it for sticker price.

Of course, you know better and will reply with the price determined in Step 6. Upon hearing this, your sales guy will make a sour face (don’t worry, they make this face for every reply they get – even sticker price). Your sales guy will say something to the extent of, “Boy, I don’t think this is going to fly with my manager, but I might be able to work something out,” and proceed to head to the sales manager’s office.

This type of sales tactic is used by 99% of the dealerships out there and is known commonly as the “Good Cop, Bad Cop” routine. Your salesman pretends to be your friend, working for your side, while the “evil” manager is working against all of you. Of course, it’s all a well-rehearsed theater that has been performed hundreds, if not thousands of times by your salesman.

The purpose of this sales tactic is subversive, in that it attempts to make you think you are powerless in the decision making process. Emotionally frustrated individuals will then resign themselves to giving control of the process to their salesman and his sales manager – which is exactly what the dealership wants.

When your salesman returns, he will come back with an initial price thousands more than the price you stated. This is just typical push-pull negotiation that tries to shock you into submission – which is why you should completely ignore what he comes back with. Simply stick to the plan and state that you want the price you originally mentioned. Not a cent more.

At this point, your friendly salesman will quickly realize that you mean business and will unleash every sales tactic at his disposal. Among the wide range of tactics you might encounter are:

• Blame: You’re being unreasonable, we would lose money, I need to make a living
• Deflection: My manager won’t let me, I wish I could help you guys
• Disinformation: Your printed invoice is wrong, the price has gone up recently
• Distraction: Let’s talk about your trade-in or financing instead
• False Logic: This is a popular car, this is our last model on the lot
• Hostility: You’re wasting my time, my manager is angry at you guys, I’m getting tired of this
• Lies: We added feature X to the car (not on manufacturer sticker), had to replace the windshield or repaint that car
• Persuasion: You’ve already won- this is the lowest we’ve ever gone, you’ll look great in that car
• Pressure: C’mon- let’s do it (repeat), don’t you want a new car today, this is a one time deal
• Stonewall: That’s our best offer, we can’t go any lower
• Tag Team: “Hi, I’m Jim the finance guy. Steve here tells me you guys want to clean us out!”
• Urgency: We have another buyer who just needs to get financing, take it or leave it

Depending on your salesman, this can be a very stressful situation for you – which again, is another reason to be emotionally prepared for negotiations. Your salesman knows that trying to debate you rationally will probably be a losing cause (i.e., explaining the need for $3,000 profit on a $20,000 car), so most sales tactics rely on pushing your emotional buttons. Again, just remember that is is all theater and to stay calm.

What you should do during negotiations is stick to your guns and ask for the price point you came in at. Say little and stay on the topic of sale price. You can expect that after 20 to 30 minutes of this, your salesman will either collapse and give-in, or you will have a stalemate. In the event of the stalemate, where the dealer refuses to go any lower, you’ll have to make your own call on whether or not their figure is reasonable. If it’s within $100 or $200, you might just say fine. If it’s more, it may be in your interest to say, “Thanks for your time” and walk.

Many people have an aversion to walking out of a dealership, almost as if it’s a social offense. It’s odd, because that couldn’t be further from the truth. Walking out of a dealership is like walking out of Macy’s without a buying new sweater – it simply means you didn’t like what you saw and will now shop elsewhere. A car dealership is the very same way; either both parties are happy or there’s no deal. 

If you’re willing to walk out after 30 minutes, you could easily hit up three different dealerships in the same day and figure out who is willing to offer you the lowest deal. That’s how the school car negotiations worked before the days of the internet, when consumers didn’t know car pricing and only through walking, could buyers find out how low dealers were willing to go. It’s time consuming and not for everyone, but it works.

Stay tuned for Part 3 of the Car Negotiation Guide

Step 1: Come Emotionally Prepared

The statement above should really end with the line “for battle”, because you should come prepared and determined. Buying a car can be a great mental toll, with lots of pressure, so be sure to negotiate on a day when you feel ready, rather than immediately after a long day at work. It will help your decision making skills greatly.

Also, have a confident mindset when you arrive on the lot. It’s easy to forget that as the party with the purchasing power, you are the one that is in control. Having emotional control is important, because salesmen are trained to push your emotional buttons to buy, even though the terms may not be favorable to you. You should be very comfortable saying “no“.

If you know you are timid or uncomfortable at the idea of negotiating, either bring along a friend for moral support or consider buying your car through an intermediary such as a car broker (we are happy to refer a local auto broker if you email us).

Step 2: Know How Much the Vehicle is Worth

It’s impossible to negotiate properly unless you actually know how much your prospective car is worth. Thanks to sources on the internet like Kelly Blue Book or Edmunds.com, you can easily find the invoice pricing of any new vehicle on the market. Print or write the numbers and figures down on a sheet of paper and bring it with you to the dealership. Be sure to get the invoice price of your car with all the right packages and add-ons, as you don’t want to arrive at the dealership only to realize you only know the price of a base price, bare bones car.

When you arrive at the dealership, don’t hide or flaunt the fact that you know their invoice pricing. If you do, the salesmen will probably give you the spiel that not all dealerships pay the same price and that the internet figures are totally wrong. They may even show you an invoice that is far above the figures you found. The truth is that while dealerships don’t always pay the same per vehicle, the difference is within the hundreds, rather than thousands. When in doubt, trust the invoice you printed out.

Step 3: Arrange Financing Beforehand

Before stepping into any dealership, you should also have a firm idea of how to finance your vehicle. If you are taking out a loan, you need to get a credit check to know what your credit score is. Your credit score determines your ability to get a loan and the interest rate of the loan. If possible, you should try to get a pre-approved loan from the bank beforehand, so you have an idea of what APR you qualify for (and if you quality for a loan, period).

With the internet, you can also find many auto loan payment calculators that will tell you how much your monthly payments will be depending on your initial down, APR and loan term (normally 36 months). Because of the complexity of finances, it’s important to figure this all out before negotiating. If you attempt to walk in without any idea of your financing, you might as well have a giant bulls-eye on your forehead when you step into the doors of the dealership.

Step 4: Know What to Expect

Ok, you’ve done your homework and you’re now sitting down with salesman, with your special other or friend looking on. From here on out, it’s what we refer to as the dog and pony show- the big razzle dazzle. Your salesman will most likely bring out a form and start asking how much you’re looking to pay per month, asking about your trade-in, down payment and price you want to pay. This form is often called the “four squares” and this and other similar forms are employed by dealerships to divert your attention and distract you.

The salesmen will usually ask if you have a trade-in at this point. If you do, go ahead and say so, but don’t reveal any more than that. More than likely, another salesman is already out looking at your car figuring out the black book value anyways, but it’s in your best interest to negotiate the trade-in later. At no point, should you ever, ever, give up the keys to your car, license or insurance during negotiations (you do need to provide a photocopy of your license for the test drive, however). If the salesman asks for them, it should be a huge red flag, as shady dealerships will withhold these items from you to prolong negotiations.

Step 5: Negotiate Only on Price, Not Payments or Extras

Now that the negotiation form is out, your salesman is going to try and toss a flurry of figures at you. Politely – but firmly – tell him you want to negotiate only on the price of a car and nothing else. Your salesman knows that most people are emotionally attached to their monthly payments and how much they need to put down, so he’s going to try and push your buttons to play his game. Don’t fall for it. Negotiating only on price makes things easier for you to understand – which is good for you, but bad for the dealership.

Next: Part 2 – Car Negotiation: The 10 Step Guide

But every driver is different and the important question to ask yourself when considering an auto purchase is; what do I need? What do I want? What can I afford and willing to spend?

Answering those questions will guide you to the vehicle that’s right for you.

US News and World Reports published a list of the best and worst vehicles for the money, depending on many specific factors relating to cost. Their rankings are based on opinions from the automotive press, it also incorporates a five year total in ownership of the vehicle, and includes facts from Intellichoice which determines new car values and owning costs.

The rankings are not based on rebate incentives, but more on how much buyers will spend on the maintenance and fuel, while also calculating depreciation. So in reality their rankings are, best car for your money… over time.

Jamie Page Deaton writes

Car shoppers face an uncertain economy and a shrinking ability to borrow. The key to surviving the current marketplace is to stretch your dollars as far as they’ll go — but that doesn’t mean flocking to the biggest incentives.  It means focusing on cars that are proven winners and offer a great value over the entire life of the car.

Here are five from the US News and World Reports 2009 Awards

Toyota Camry -Best Midsize Car for the Money

Honda Fit- Best Subcompact Car for the Money

Hyundai Elantra -Best Compact Car for the Money

Chevrolet Tahoe-Best Full Size SUV for the Money

Lexus GS- Best Luxury Car for the Money

In all, the magazine had 14 different vehicle categories, with Toyota being the big winner. The Japanese automaker placed five Best Vehicles for the Money in their respective classes, also getting another three from Lexus. However the biggest surprise could be the Hyundai Elantra which ended up being the best compact car for the money. Proof the Korean automaker is gaining ground on powerhouses Toyota and Honda.

See the full list of Best Cars for the Money  and all the different categories by US News and World Reports.

Locally, word of the 2010 Prius is already at loud buzz, with many potential buyers waiting for this new Toyota hybrid rather than saving thousands now on the 2009 version, by using the Washington state tax exemption. Lets consider the numbers on that, people would rather pay a premium price a new hybrid technology car(maybe $27,500 loaded), rather than save thousands of dollars(over $2500) on a new 2009 Prius.

“People are excited about it(2010 Prius),” claims Matt Page from Toyota of Bellevue. ”The people who asking about the 2010, are sure they want to buy it. It’s supposed to be more efficient and they want that new hybrid technology.”

The 2010 will supposedly get better mileage than the older generation model, by 4-5 miles per gallon. If that’s true, that will be close to 50 mpg. The 2010 is reportedly bigger than in years past as well, 3-4 inches longer and an inch wider. Even with the increases capacity and efficiency,  the 2010 will also have more horsepower, rumored up to 160hp from 110hp.

But of course, Toyota didn’t just stop at the 4-door sedan. News out of the Detroit unveiling, is that later in the year, the Prius will come in a wagon and/or mini van model. There will also be newer upgraded versions(think iPhone) where buyers will have the option of buying the Prius with a rechargeable lithium-ion battery, that would allow drivers to plug-in their vehicles.  

In the Seattle area, the 2010 will be available around spring time, expect the price tag to start around the mid-$20,000 range. But you’ll just have to wait and see on everything else.

“Unfortunately I have to be vague about them(2010 Prius’), ” says Page. “They’ll be here no later than May, but other than that, all I can tell you is there are plenty of people asking about them.”

Being that they’re reportedly bigger, stronger, and saves more in fuel, it’s no wonder that Toyota’s Prius is the world’s top-selling hybrid. From all accounts, the 2010 version will do things even better and thus, living up to the hype.

According to Consumer Guide Automotive here are the preliminary specs for the 2010 Toyota Prius

Drivetrain
Drive wheels: front
Engine: 1.8-liter 4-cylinder gasoline engine with battery-driven electric motor
Horsepower: 100 gas engine, 160 combined
Torque: NA

Tire Chains – Cheap, Effective but Annoying

Of the most popular items for Seattle drivers are tire chains. Chains can be purchased at just about any auto store like Les Schwab, Sears or Joes and come in almost every fit and size possible. Generic brand tire chains are usually run anywhere from $40 to $60 when not in high demand (like during the middle of a snowstorm). During the peak of December’s winter mess, we reported on price gouging that had retailers selling chains up to $100 for a basic set. Be warned that many of these generic chains come with no warranty and leave consumers stranded financially and literally if they suddenly fail. Tire chains from a brand name like Thule provide a 1-year warranty, however.

Tire chains are the most popular option because they’re the most affordable and also a non-permanent solution: you put it on when it snows and take it off when you’re done. That is easier said than done, as just about everybody hates putting on tire chains, especially out in the snow. Chains also provide the best performance in deep snow and ice conditions.

There are two main types of chains: the classic type you drive onto and the modern type that you can “wrap” around your tire. The classic type provides is often more durable and cheaper, but requires substantial effort to put on and is almost impossible to install once your car is in the now. We don’t recommend this type because in reality, most drivers only put on snow chains as a last resort. Almost all tire cables fall into this category, as they require the vehicle to drive onto the cables before installation, which is why we’re not the biggest fan of cables.

This modern brand of snow chains is usually referred to as the diamond, express or quick chain, which uses a hoop-style system that loops around the tire. This can still be a pain to install, but can be put on while in snow – enabling drivers to store and use in emergency situations.

Important Tip: Do not ignore the manufacturer recommendations of going over 30mph while you have chains on. We cannot stress this enough. Year after year, we see dozens of chains littering the freeways after a snowstorm, because motorists didn’t know or just didn’t care. Not only is it blowing away $60, but when your chains come off, they don’t just break – they whiplash around your wheelwell in a fantastic fashion – destroying anything it comes in contact with. I’ve personally destroyed my ABS sensor because of this, so learn from my mistakes and countless others. Don’t think it can’t happen to you, because countless autobody shops around King county are weeks deep in appointments because of wheelwheel damage from busted chains. Again, do not go over 30mph – otherwise take local roads or take off your chains if conditions dictate.

Also, it’s important to practice putting on your chains before you actually have to. That way, you can understand your chains in a warm and preferably dry environment before attempting it in the wet and freezing outdoors. Even in an ideal environment, chains can be a miserable process. For this reason alone, many drivers have opted for options besides chains, which lead us to our next topic.

Studded Tires – Best for Ice, Poor on Everything Else

Studded tires use tiny metal points in the tread that act as small picks to dig into the road surface. A set of studded tires isn’t cheap and will run about the same as a normal set of tires: anywhere from $300 to $400. The other cost is that you will need to put on and remove your tires each season, as studded tires are by law, only allowed between November 1st and March 31st in Washington State. The reason for the limited duration is that the tiny metal studs while great for ice, also tear up road surfaces, making for expensive road repairs by the state. Washington also only allows “lightweight” studs, which do less damage to roads but are supposedly as effective.

We aren’t fans of studded tires because while the studs work well to dig into ice, research shows that the studded tips are not very effective in snow. In Seattle and the Northwest, it’s far more common to have snow than ice, due to our moderate temperatures and high precipitation. Even though our recent bout with snow had icy streets all over Seattle, the city – after much protesting from citizens – announced that they would indeed use salt in future snow conditions, removing most situations of pure ice conditions.

In addition, due to the infrequency of snow in Seattle, it’s impractical to have studded tires on all the time because it will be overkill for not only the roads, but your own peace of mind. Anyone who has driven with studs on bare asphault can tell you that it creates an headache inducing hum and vibration. Not only that, studs actually perform worse on concrete than normal tires, due to the reduction in contact surface between the rubber and the road.

The benefit to studded tires are that they require little work other than forking over your credit card and won’t lead to harrowing chain ordeals on the side of the road. Less stress and less performance is what you get with studs.

Traction and Snow Tires – Same Stud Benefits, Less Drawbacks

If studded tires are classic technology, then traction tires are the wave of the future. Traction (sometimes referred to as “snow tires”) use specialized compounds and treads to provide better grip in snow. Different tire manufacturers have experimented with various technologies, with big names such as Bridgestone and Goodyear using specialized traction rubber while Toyo uses crushed walnut. While consumers might think that these provide less traction than studs, studies have shown that some studless tires actually perform better than their counterparts on ice.

Like studded tires however, traction tires will suffer in deep snow, as they simply do not have enough grip to pull the vehicle around. As such, owners of studs or traction tires will find driving best after other drivers have compacted deep snow. The benefits of studded tires are a bit better however, as traction tires can be installed anytime and don’t damage the road or cause excessive vibration or noise. Drivers will find that traction tires wear out considerably quicker than normal tires due to the softer rubber compounds so it’s still advisable to use them only when necessary to preserve the lifespan of the tires.

The Washington State Department of Transportation has more information on studded tire alternatives.

Summary

Each item has it’s various pros and cons, so it’s really up to each driver to decide what is best for them. For most occasional drivers who are willing to get a bit dirty, chains are the practical use snow traction device. For drivers who would like to save some headache at the cost of extra dollars, traction tires are a fairly good alternative.

Stay turned for SeattleAuto.net’s feature on snow alternatives that you probably haven’t heard of, such as the SnoBootz and Autosock!

Tire Chains

Pros
• Cheap, usually $50 to $60
• Best snow performance, including deep snow
• Can take on and off anytime

Cons
• Annoying to put on and take off
• Limited to 30mph
• Some types cannot be put on in snow

Studded Tires

Pros
• Professional installation
• Good on ice and packed snow
• Can travel at higher speeds than chains

Cons
• High price and yearly installation/removal cost
• Mediocre deep snow performance
• Mediocre dry road performance
• Road damage, interior noise and vibration

Traction Tires

Pros
• Professional installation
• Good on ice and packed snow
• Highest travel speed, can be used anytime

Cons
• High price and faster wear if used on dry pavement
• Mediocre deep snow performance

Here is a link to a WSDOT video on how to install classic style tire cables.

East Coasters have known for decades that when it snows, it’s time bust out the snow shovels before the car gets stuck in snow or ice. Here in Seattle, the Olympic mountains and Puget Sound generally ensure that we avoid huge snow drifts, though this last snowstorm proves that it can still happen. Next time you’re at the hardware store, pickup a snow shovel and have it ready. When the snow is still fresh, that’s the best time to shovel it aside, as leaving snow overnight almost guarantees a fresh sheet of ice the next morning. Not fun.

For the less physically challenged, chemicals like de-icers are readily available at local auto and hardware stores. However, according to the Jeff Adamson of the Washington State Department of Transportation Blog, pure liquid de-icers are not ideal for use in your driveway, as they leave a sticky residue that will stay on your shoes and track into your house. As an example, Adamson says that the grand opening of The Bon retail store in Colorado was short lived, as they had to replace 50,000 square feet of brand new carpet after de-icing their parking lot for opening event. Adamson advises mixing a de-icer with hot water before applying, which will make the residue less sticky. He warns that the mixture is best used a effective as a pre-treatment, rather than a way of melting snow and ice.

Since most of us don’t have the foresight to predict when a snow storm will hit, Adamson notes that salt is still your best bet to melt snow and ice after it has formed. Bags of salt in ten and twenty pound denominations can all be readily bought at most hardware stores during the winter season and it should take most homeowners only one bag to melt the snow in your driveway.

Once at your car, you may also find (especially in older model cars) that your door lock is stuck. A common fix is some lock de-icer, which can be bought at most auto stores or places like Sears and Fred Meyer. This de-icer costs about $3 and every driver should buy a tube and store it away for emergency situations. Some de-icers also act as a lubricant, which is a good lock maintenance task to perform anyways.

Another maintenance topic for the winter that is often overlooked is making sure you have enough windshield washer fluid. Seattle drivers knew all too well that the city had a policy against salt (since changed after the snowstorm) and instead used a combination of sand, de-icer and plows. This combination turns into a filmy mess when it is kicked up into the air by cars (and especially semi trucks) in front and sticks to your windshield like paste. Your wipers will streak this residue all over your windshield, making the situation worse, so having adequate washer fluid is a critical safety issue in these situations. I keep an entire bottle of windshield fluid in my trunk for this reason alone.

If you’re extra considerate about keeping your visibility intact, make it a point to simply clean the inside of your windshield with some windex and cloth during the winter season. This will help remove dust and particles on your glass that attract water and fog up your windows. A clean window helps moisture from attaching as easily and makes your defroster more efficient.

If you can successfully get out of your driveway, that’s half the battle over, but still another half to go unfortunately. Your friend once on the road is traction – keeping your tires gripping the ground (or snow). Having tires with good tread is important in all conditions, dry or wet, but especially in snow. Treads help dig into snow and provide grip, whereas bald tires will lead to disastrous slipping and sliding. The traditional way to see if you have enough tread is to do the “penny test”, where you put a penny into the tire tread and see if Lincoln’s head can go into the tread. If the head is completely exposed, you have too little tread left (although honestly, you should change your tire before your tread gets this low).

These are some easy and preventative winterization tips that will help make life just a little easier in the next big Seattle snow storm. Check our related articles below for more winter driving and maintenance tips!

Welcome!  

This is the first post for the brand new Seattle Auto blog. We will be talking all about cars and automobiles, from sports cars to family vans. Look for future interviews with local Seattle car dealerships and our exclusive guides on negotiations, selecting the right car and tips and tricks on what to look for. 

We look forward to educating and entertaining you!

- Seattle Auto Blog team

To protect your car, we turned to a few local auto experts. At a local Shucks Auto, the sales clerk, Jon, indicates that “wind shield wipers, wiper fluids, car batteries and de-icers” all start to pick up this time of year.  

On windshield wipers, Jon notes that “the sun and icy winter tends to crack the rubber blades,”  so it’s important to regularly change wipers. Keeping your visibility intact, especially during the wet and dark winter months is a necessity for safe driving. Most auto stores have a guide on which blade to buy or you can simply ask for new blades at your next oil change. Tip: On especially cold days, pull your wipers up, as you would when washing your car, so they don’t freeze and stick to the window in the morning.

Batteries commonly faily during the winter, which many know firsthand, can lead to the embarassing scenario of begging for help and fumbling with jumper cables. While most modern cars have maintenance free batteries, it’s “still a good idea to get them checked now rather than finding out the hard way”, says Jon. Places like Shucks, Les Schwab and Sears all offer free battery checks.

“Antifreeze is important too,” Jon adds, noting that keeping your coolant topped helps enture your engine run at a consistent temperate. Cooling systems are under more stress during extreme hot and cold weather and are the most common cause of engine failure.

One thing Jon doesn’t mention are lights, which are often overlooked by drivers due to the difficulty in spotting a burned out bulb. “I never even realized my headlight was out,” says David, a Redmond resident, who was pulled over twice in one day due to a busted headlamp. Checking your car lights is as simple as turning them on and walking around your car and is an important safety precaution. Studies have shown that cars with daytime running lights are in fewer accidents, as lights help other drivers with identification. Thus, keeping your lights functioning in the winter is paramount to reducing your risk.

Apart from preventative maintenance, we talked to Ben Wolters at Auto Seattle, whose company specializes in custom accessories for new cars, for advice on keeping your car clean. ”Floor liners, floor mats and garage liners,” says Wolters. He notes that a popular seller with Seattle buyers are Husky floormats, which are durable for our wet weather. For those who want to protect their investments, Wolters recommends hood deflectors, as the can “keep any debris off the car, such as rocks and salt.”  
With the economy down and customers getting a bit more tight on their wallets, stores like Auto Seattle have felt the pinch as well. “But,” Wolters adds, protective accessories makes a lot of sense “for those who want to take care of their thirty, fourty or fifty thousand dollar investment.”

Next in Part 2, Good Tires and Managing Your Driveway

Example of private auto sellers from an online classifieds

Buying a used car is tricky business. Just the thought alone of dealing with a used car salesman is enough to make most buyers reach for the headache medicine. But for those who hate the idea of even walking onto a dealership lot, there is always the option of private sellers.

In fact, private sellers make up a significant chunk of all used car sales. You can find private sellers just about anywhere – in newspapers, online classifieds and the dubious looking abandoned looking car with the “For Sale” sign in the window. 

Many buyers stick to the reliability of buying from a dealer, while bargain hunters often swear to the benefits from private sales. The truth is that there are both benefits and drawbacks of buying from a dealership versus buying from a private seller. 

Fact #1 – Private Sellers Are Almost Always Cheaper

A tidbit of information that most people don’t know, is that auto dealerships actually make more money off used car sales than new car sales. Dealers have access to large inventories of used cars, most of which they can buy at wholesale or auction and then sell directly to consumers. Because the dealerships go to the hassle of finding vehicles, accepting trade-ins and maintaining an inventory, they will charge a much higher mark-up than a private seller who has little to no inventory cost. 

Dealerships often quote their cars at prices inline with the Kelly Blue Book. Often, they will even quote under KBB to give the impression of value. What your salesman isn’t saying however, is that there is are two versions of the Kelly Blue Book – one for dealerships and one for private sellers. The price of the same car in the same condition for private sellers will always be lower than the price the dealer shows you. 

Fact #2 – Dealerships Can’t Knowingly Sell a Broken Car

Thanks to a legal protection called the warranty of merchantability, dealerships cannot knowing sell you a car that doesn’t meet reasonable quality standards. By law, if you buy a car that has a basic operating problem at the time of purchase (broken axle, cracked engine, non-functioning brakes, etc), you are entitled to legal recourse. Unfortunately, if your air conditioner fails a month after purchasing, you would have to prove that the condition existed at the time of sale – not an easy task. 

That said, dealerships know about this implied warranty and most know it is not in their interest to pawn off lemons to every customer that comes in. However, if a car is sold “As is”, then you had better keep your guard up, because once you buy that car, it – and any problems it might have – are yours.

For those curious about Washington State lemon laws – they only apply to new vehicles, unfortunately.

Fact #3 – Private Sellers Can Sell You a Broken Car

Dealerships have to legally register with the state, adhere to the warranty of merchantability and also provide a Buyer’s Guide with every used car. Private sellers don’t have to do anything. Stories abound about buyers finding seemingly bargain deals, only to realize later that the car was a salvage, had an existing lien, was stolen or can’t even pass emissions.

We knew one buyer who was on the verge of buying a beautiful but used Mercedes CLK with low miles from a sleek private seller. His fiance convinced him to get a professional inspection, whereas they learned that their luxury dream car was actually spliced together from two separate cars. They’re married now, but they passed (luckily) on the car.

So unless you have a contract in writing, you should consider all private sales “As is”. That means it’s buyer beware – and all the more reason to do your homework.

Fact #4 – Time Spend Researching and Buying a Car is Almost Equal

For some buyers, getting a used car is simply going to a dealership and driving enough cars until they find one they like. Research and cost oriented buyers however, generally do a lot of research before sealing the deal. 

If you’re looking for a particular type of car, you’ll probably spend the same amount of time in buying a car, whether you shopped only with dealerships or with private sellers. Individual dealerships have limited inventory compared to the entire pool of private sellers, so you’ll be hopping from one location to another no matter what. Every car you look at will involve a test drive, an rough inspection and if you’re close to buying, a professional inspection.

Fact #5 – There are both Good and Bad Dealers and Private Sellers

Realize that no matter where you go, you will inevitably find someone who doesn’t have your interest at hand. At the same time, there are also many reasonable individuals who just want to do honest business. It’s good to keep your guard up, but it’s also important to realize that the majority of people you deal with aren’t looking to pull a fast one. 

Being armed with the right information is the best thing you can do to ensure a good car and solid deal. Good luck!

For additional information, here are some resources that we recommend:

Washington State Attorney General’s Office on Cars
Federal Trade Comission – Used Car Dealer Guide